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system design

Rolle des Netzzählers ET-340

ich bin noch relativ neu in dem ganzen ESS und PV-Thema. Inzwischen habe ich mein System aber dank Unterstützung zum Laufen bekommen.

Vorhanden ist ein MultiPlus II, 2x Pylontech Akkus mit je 2,4 KW, Venus GX und PV-Anlage mit 1400 W, die über 230V in das System am AC-Out des MultiPlus gespeist werden.

Nun mal eine Frage zu den Einstellmöglichkeiten des Energiezählers ET-340.
Es gibt die Einstellung "Netzzähler" und unter anderem "AC Energiemesser". Aktuell ist er auf "Netzzähler" eingestellt und das System funktioniert.

Allerdings ist unsere Wohnung nicht der einzige Verbraucher nach dem Hauptzähler der Stadt. Es gibt mehrere Abgänge und wir haben dann in der Wohnung wieder ein Zwischenzähler. Danach folgt direkt der ET-340.

Jetzt möchte ich natürlich nicht die Überschüssige Energie in die Leitung zum Zähler einspeisen, damit sich die anderen Verbraucher am Ende des Jahres freuen, dass sie Energie gespart haben.
Vorrangig sollen bei genügend vorhandener PV-Leistung erst mal die Akkus geladen werden.
Deshalb dachte ich, wenn ich die Rolle des ET-340 auf "AC Energiemesser" einstelle, würde er nur zu meinen Verbrauchern entladen, wenn auch welche aktiv also eingeschaltet sind.

Leider verhält sich die Umstellung so, dass der Wechselrichter auf "Durchleiten" steht und er meine Verbraucher nicht mehr erkennt. Auch ein Neustart des Venux GX hat leider nicht dafür gesorgt, dass er die Lasten wieder erkennt. Habe aktuell die Einstellung wieder zurück geändert.

So sehen die beiden Fälle im Dashboard aus:



Hat jemand eine Idee zu meinem Problem? Oder verstehe ich die Einstellung "AC Energiemesser" falsch?

thomasl78 asked
thomasl78 commented ·

5 Answers

System setup Help

I apologize in advance for the help I'm asking for.

I have a 100/30 SmartSolar controller, 1x SmartShunt 500A, 1x Energy Smart Battery sense, 3x Renogy 12v 100Ah AGM (parallel), 6x HQST 12v 100w Mono panel in series to parallel (24v) and 1x Battery protect (Not connected) in a 5th wheel camper.

I just switched from a EPever 30A controller which was charging fine, according to the controller. My data now is all over the board and my bank isn't getting charged properly. I know its alot to ask but what a need is a step by step, entry by entry instruction on how to setup my system. A link would be great as I realize this is alot to ask for.

Thank you all for your time.



greagoir asked
seb71 commented ·

1 Answer

Quattro 48/15000 90 kVA System

Hi everyone, We are working on an off-grid system with backup desiel generator and battery bank to feed a communication tower with 48.4kW load for 24 hours a day. In the based design I'm using (3-phase Quattro 48/15000 (6 units) + BYD B-Box 51.2V LVS 24kWh (5 units) for backup + Longi Bifacial panels 530Wp (160 modules) + MPPT Charge Controller 250/100 (15 units)).

1-will this 84.4kwp of solar PV panels provide required power for the system?

2- Can I use SmartSolar MPPT RS 450|200 (9 units) instead of MPPT Charge controller 250/100 (15 units)? it is sufficient?

mohammed-npc asked
sharpener answered ·

1 Answer

System Design Questions

My install in our Riverstone 5th wheel consists of the following:

(2) SmartSolar MPPT 150/60 solar charge controllers

(2) MultiPlus 12/3000/120-50 Inverters

(1) Lynx Power In

(2) Lynx Distributors

(10) 200 watt Rich Solar panels

Cerbo GX and GX Touch 50

Victron 120-240/100A Autotransformer

(8) BB 100AH LiFePO4 batteries

Orion TR Smart 12/12 30 amp iso.acted smart charger

The inverters are already hanging in the front pass-through, and the DC-DC charger, MPPTs, and DC In, DC distributors are mounted on a board in the front generator compartment above the door on the front wall. The Autotransformer will get hung next to the inverters.

- I plan to use 2/0 cable for the interconnects between the cells, and 4/0 cabling between the battery bank and the DC in. The battery output to the DC In will have a Blue Sea 600 amp disconnect and a fuse. The battery will be connected in one bank fo

- I also recently installed an Onan 6500 watt commercial RV generator (rig had generator prep option so the install was pretty straight forward).

- I plan on wiring two pairs of 10 AWG wiring from the solar panels to the charge controllers (wired in two banks of 5 panels). I already have a breaker enclosure and (2) two pole breakers to be able to disconnect the input to the charge controllers).

- I plan on using 2/0 cabling between the Lynx Distributor and the DC input to the inverters, and each will have a Blue Sea Systems 600 amp DC disconnect switch.

- For the DC-DC charger I plan on running 6 AWG cabling from my trucks alternator (2019 F-450, has dual alternators rated at 397 amps), to the bed of the truck near the 7 pin and utilize an Andersen connector.

Questions I have:

1 - what size cabling between the inverter AC output and the autotransformer input and from autotransformer output and AC distribution panel?

2 - Is a breaker needed between the inverters and the autotransformer, and between the autotransformer and the AC distribution panel?

3 - In your video you mentioned you ran the solar cables from the roof through the forward gray tank vent. How did you exit the vent pipe once inside the rig?

4 - For the DC-DC charger, how did I route the wiring from the DC-DC charger to the bed of the truck? Can I just push a fish tape and try and follow the trailer side of the 7-pin wiring?

5 - With the DC-DC charger installed, do I need to disable the charging wire coming from the 7-pin?

6 - My Riverstone already has a factory inverter installed that runs the refrigerator, TV, recliners, and a few outlets and I don’t plan to mess with that setup. Any issues there?

7 - What size disconnect do I need between the battery bank and the Lynx DC in?

8 - I am considering adding a lead acid battery to start the generator - what would be the best method to charge that and the house bank while the generator is running?

9 - The rig came with 1 factory solar panel and charge controller. I removed the factory panel and will be removing the factory charge controller - once I find it.

10 - I assume I don’t need to mess with the factory battery charger - or do I once the MultiPlus inverter chargers are up and running?

11 - What size fuse am I looking at for the battery output to the DC In.

12 - What is the best method for connecting the inverter AC output to the breaker panel in my rig?

I am sure more questions will pop up, and I really could use a wiring diagram showing all of the interconnects, breakers, disconnects, etc.

Please let me know what your design services will cost and how to move forward. Additionally, what would it cost to have you come out here to CT and help me do the install?

I already have pretty much everything I need, with the exception of any breakers needed on output side of the inverters, inverter output cabling, and a couple other little things.

I was a nuclear electronics technician in the Navy for 20 years so I am pretty savvy on this stuff, but want to make sure I do it right the first time.


ct-mike asked

0 Answers

Battery Temperature monitoring with Lynx Shunt

I have't found a definitive answer on this, the Lynx shunt temperature sensor attached to the positive or negative battery terminal or does it not matter? There little info in the manual.

Thankyou in advance

southsideph asked
Stefanie answered ·

1 Answer

maximum wattage load with quatro 3000

I have a quatro 3000 24v and doesn't like to run to 2000 watts for very long, I know its supposed to handle 2400 continuously, so if its not the quatro what else might be not coping with the load?

philv asked
philv answered ·

3 Answers

Hallo, kann ich den Multiplus II auch einphasig auf L2 betreiben? Überall ist beispielhaft L1 vorgegeben.

Hallo, seit Kurzem betreibe ich eine AC gekoppelte PV Anlage und speise einphasig auf L2 ein (bei meiner Altanlage liegen fast alle Verbraucher auf L2). Die Schaltpläne von Victron gehen von einer Einspeisung auf L1 aus. Gibt meine Wahl von L2 Ärger bei der Stromflußverteilungsstrategie des Cerbo GX? und sollte ich ggf. beim Stromzähler EM24 die Anschlüsse L1 und L2 vertauschen, damit würde ihm vorgegaukelt daß auf L1 eingespeist würde.

rasputin asked
Matthias Lange - DE answered ·

1 Answer

Two phase system changing to 1 phase in power outage

I have a very specific system in mind. I want to replace a tri-phase 240v connection to the house because it is 3 times as expensive as single phase power and have a backup power source. But there is an issue, there is a 2 phase 9kVA appliance in the house that is used sometimes. The 9kVA appliance is in two of the phases, and the whole house is in the other. My options are to move the house into the two phases provided by the victron and let them manage the incoming single phase grid somehow (which I think is not possible), or have two victrons run the 9kVA in an off grid type bi-phase system when grid power is functional, and switch one of them or the two of them when the grid goes down to power the house which would be in another circuit.

iabeck asked
shaneyake commented ·

1 Answer

Three phase solar system to home



Could this type of set up work as a one phase and three phase home solar system? Does this plan have any problems or something to fix?

Im not the best one to create professional electrical circuit diagrams.

All help will be useful! Thank you!

crimu asked

0 Answers

Marine Electronics System Design & Installation Help / Periodic Resource

Hi Folks,

Long time listener first time caller... : ) Have been lurking here for the last year plus and thanks for the support and community here.

I bought and live aboard a 37ft sailboat as of a year and a half ago. Have been doing projects and making upgrades in anticipation of cruising the boat long term / off grid. I've grown increasingly interested in electrical systems, have already made some upgrades to the boat here including a Multiplus II and some other upgrades and reconfigurations, and really I'm really eager to continue to gain more competency here.

I've learned a lot so far, but I consistently find myself up against knowledge gaps - especially with electrical - that end up burning way too much time and way too much energy spinning my wheels reading manuals and haphazardly trudging through misc online resources to try and answer questions and decision make toward a clear path forward... often ending up without clear answers or a path forward.

As of this winter my existing AGM batteries are toast. I need to make some moves here in the near term as I'm moving back aboard ASAP and getting the boat back in the water. I'm leaning toward a move to LifePo4 house bank and the requisite system upgrades to build, charge, operate, and maintain the system safely and efficiently. I'm making progress on my own - I think - putting info for system design together but have again found myself wasting too way too much time on questions that I'm sure are quite simple for the right person.

Is there a qualified marine electrician or marine electrical company out there familiar with Victron products than can provide periodic consultation services while I design and build my system?

I'm more than happy to pay for this, it would save me so much time and give me so much more confidence. I'm enjoying the research, diagramming, and learning thats coming with this and am trying to be as thorough and organized as possible - but I'm painfully aware that I need some expert advice to move this forward safely and confidently.

System currently includes: 30A shore power, 3.5kw Generator, Multiplus II 12/3000/120, Victron BMV, 2 - 30A Blue Sea Distribution Panels, Blue Sea DC Distribution Panel, 420 Ah of (toasted) AGM batteries split between house / start, 1500W Lofrans Windlass, Raymarine Instruments, Refrigeration / Compressor, Misc other DC consumers.

Upgrades I have and are not installed, or plan to buy install: LifePO4 Cells, REC or Orion Jr BMS, Tyco Contactors / Disconnectors, Victron Orion DC >> DC Charger, 400W - 600W of PV Array, Victron MPPT Controllers, Balmar Alternator, Balmar or Wakespeed Alternator Regulator, Galvanic Isolator, 30A Blue Sea ELCI.

If there are existing resources out there you can recommend, please do. If you're an individual out there that might be the right fit to help guide me through this I'd love to connect and try to figure out a way to work together toward designing and me executing on this.


// Phil

panema asked

0 Answers

Low battery warning


so I have everything wired to this system, with the dc/dc hookup, mppt solar, 3000 multi plus. And 300ah of lithium battery. when I disconnect my batteries I’m still getting 12 throughout my system, yes the break in the line is to the batteries. Also the victron multi plus keeps showing low voltage. Even when we are in the sun with the solar system charging. What am I doing wrong and how can this be fixed?

carterkemppel asked
jengstro answered ·

4 Answers

Victron system diagram for my conversion

What to choose for a BMS? I've seen diagrams with the VE.Bus, others with the Lynx BMS, others still with the BMS 12/100.

Does it make sense to plan two Orions 12/30 to leverage on the powerful smart alternator or it's overcomplicating the solution?


Context: I have a Mercedes V-Class (W447) where I want to replace an inverter of 1500W power (peak 3000W) and the "dead" battery. It is a "Luxury Van", rebuilt a few years ago, with a very large TV, coffee maker, Playstation, etc. I would like to install a Victron system and convert to a recreational vehicle for short weekend adventures. This is my first design composed from several sources, it may be incorrect.

vbo asked
vbo edited ·

0 Answers

Can i control/monitor these components with GX50?

First time DIY, designing my RV system. I have 2 ea MPPT 100/20, 2 ea 12-24 Orion with Smart Shunt, 24/3000 Multiplus, 24-12 converter. Will i be able to control and or monitor these components with the CerboGx/GX50? I understand cables are required used for some of these, but Id like to at least be able to identify and monitor everything above. Thanks

kel asked
ejrossouw answered ·

1 Answer

Point me to the right system

I'm looking for a system to build on my sailboat. She is 48 foot and will eventually be a liveaboard. I have zero electronics or devices currently, she has been stripped of everything including the wires. I have the Thunderstruck 18kw kit and 32 3.2v batteries. I will eventually get, but don't currently have, wind and solar power. I also do not have a switch panel. I need a simple system that I can install to use the batteries as a main power bank and to direct power to and from sources. Is there one pre-designed on this site that I can use? The batteries will be made into a 48kw bank. There is no BMS. This will be an electric boat, but I may buy a small generator in the future.

Edit: The boat is about an hour from Seattle, Washington. I've contacted two local dealers and both have told me that they only sell parts, they do not design systems. To be clear, I'm not asking for someone here to design a new system, I'm only asking which one of the pre-designed systems that are already on this website (or another, possibly) would be best for my needs.

pontiki asked
JohnC answered ·

4 Answers

Could I have an expert opinion on controller size, if I’m going overkill or not?

Hi, just a quick go through with everyone so everyone knows how I got to where I did.

My plan is 6x 300watt panels totalling 1800watt of panels. The Voc for each panel is a touch under 35v and the Imp for each panel is a touch under 12A.

I’m thinking 3 panels in series for a total of 105v+25%

And each 3 panel array paralleled for a total of 24A + 20%

Do these numbers look correct to you guys?

Also controller I’m thinking the 150/85 is this appropriately sized or could I get away with a smaller one? I’ve seen the max wattage from the panels one of these could take is 2400W with a 24v system. All this with a 304AH 24v battery for the time being untill I get another 2 for total 608A.

Any opinions on this specifically the controller or could anybody point out where I’ve gone wrong, would be massively appreciated,

Thanks in advance

ro0ke asked
ro0ke commented ·

1 Answer


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