So our system has been working flawlessly for months now. But two times now we have had it where suddenly the system switches off the batteries. The breaker switch connecting the batteries to the inverter flips off. Then we have to manually flip it back and the system restarts. This happened one time while using our toaster, and one time while using our mIcrowave.
We realize those devices are high wattage. But our inverter can handle up to 2000 watts, and even when using the microwave (which we do every day), it only ever goes up to about 1200 or 1300 watts maximum for powering everything that is going on at once in the house, plus the microwave.
Any ideas what could be the problem causing this issue only periodically? I can share charts if you tell me what you need to see.
Morning Anthony. I could make an educated guess, but what is the battery voltage and what kind of breaker are you using for your batteries?
And when it tripped. Was that for example after another load like say a coffee machine or a cold usage? I mean the breaker could have warmed up already beforehand and with a breaker working with a bi-metal it could trip due to heat.
The battery voltage stays between 25.5 and 28.3 most of the time. Here is our inside setup in photos.
As far as we can tell, both times that it tripped, it was just normal usage, nothing extra. Both times were during the day when even the lights were off. We do have a chest freezer. I realize that freezers don’t use power continuously, perhaps there was a surge in the freezer usage, at the same time as using the microwave, randomly?
The only other thing I can say was that the time it happened using the toaster, we used the toaster like 3 times in a row, during a meal with big group. And then when using the microwave, we used it for the third time in a row for a plate. But still, those are things we would do pretty regularly with no problem.
The breaker is getting hot and tripping. Be careful it can catch on fire. The cables are too small as well for the DC. That battery bank will not last the way it is set up. It needs balancers and a nice bus bar there.
Its a 63A breaker and at 2000watts the current is higher than that at that load.
You need at least a 80A fuse and one for DC specifically, and not the AC one like you have now.
LX summed up the rest. Go get some thicker cabling for all connections, and balancers to keep all batteries at the same level. The way it is now is asking for trouble. I know. Costly, but you don’t want to end up with a fire. Speaking of which. Have a smoke detector installed as well…in case there is not one yet.
Thank you all, I’m glad I posted! I’ll see if my local electrician can do this, otherwise I will get the ultratec people from Kampala (I’m in Uganda), to come and do this.
If you are in Kampala, I can refer you to some technicians familiar with Victron systems, provided I don’t then become responsible. That said, nothing can substitute your own research.
Its even worse, the -63 is denominating the physical size, which has a current range of 1 to 63A in this package size, while C50 gives the characteristic and current, so its only a 50A breaker.
The MCB used here is indeed DC rated, i think it says 500VDC on the front, but the technical datasheet says 250VDC two pole, so not very confident. Also, many AC breakers carry also a DC rating, for example ABB S200 which is comparable to the one used here is rated both for 12 to 440VAC and 12 to 125VDC. I agree with the minimum 80A rating
I was unable to locate the datasheet for this specific FRONT device. LX mentioned 63A so I assumed that the C50 that I had seen was a similar MCB
For the two pole DC use case you would need two MCB’s wired up correctly. Power flowing into the correct direction. I’m aware of the fact that some AC breakers may be used for DC, if the product supports it.
There is also another thing to keep in mind and that is that not all DC breakers are bi-directional. Which you’ll need for the battery breaker. Since the energy flows into two directions - to and from the batteries.
And so it is, i will admit i did not look too seriously at it.
The physical size alone means that will be an issue. Its too small to be trusted with serious amps from DC. I didn’t bother looking up the part number as you did.
I digressed to the cable size/length as that would have affected heat build up as well and through that breaker the volt drop would be terrible. Then digressed to ‘those poor batteries’.
So many people loose good money in their solar equipment investments in basic set up. Hopefully that’s all they loose as fires and solar are often mentioned together and its usually starting in the switchgear. Its the one place money should never be ‘saved’.
Thank you for the advice. We paid good money for the experts to come and do the initial installation. Unfortunately it sounds like the experts also did not set it up quite right.
