For cebeo you need a VAT number. If that’s a problem for you (you don’t know anyone with a VAT number willing to order them for you), you can try contacting gigatek.be, they are a cebeo reseller. I see they have the fuses for sale on the website, but the fuse holders not, but if you ask them they’ll probably order them for you as well…
I paid 37 euro per box of three fuses, and 132 euro per 3p fuse holder (vat incl.)
I used the thermal camera for peace of mind, but it wasn’t necessary, nothing went higher than 30 degrees celcius or so. I imagine if you follow proper design rules (good quality components, sufficient cable thickness, …), crimp the terminal lugs well, and torque the bolts correctly, you shouldn’t have any issues.
I had in mind to install 3x Multi RS for our renovation. They seem to be muchos buenos.
Looking a bit around, the question about the VAT seems to pop-up quite a lot.
I provided my case to the FOD, explaining the expected production and consumption. I also added some details regarding the expected revenue.
As we have not lived in the house yet, it’s a purely theoretical exercise.
Anyway, final result … no VAT / company registration required if the actuals are in-line with my predictions. As you can curtail, that will be no issue.
Hi, I’m now in the middle of redesigning the house fusebox, As I have to replace it completly. It’s also pre 2023, so any major change requires me to add another 30mA diff and I currently have no space for that. I also have to create space for the new parts, so I have to take it down and put a larger box in.
I am in doubt about the selectivity. In my case, should I use a 300mA Type A or a Type S on the net side? What 300mA diff to use on the backup side?
I get different opinions. Both are allowed according to AREI, but some say a Type S could cause instability on the AC-coupling of my Enphase system and trigger faults on the Victron ESS, other say not using a type-S could make both the 300mA Type A and the 30mA type A trip when a fault occurs behind the 30mA diff.
I think the solar inverter doesn’t require its own 30mA diff (that’s only required for lights, powersockets, and the EV charger if I’m not mistaken).
To make the “remautomaat” work, the solar inverter needs to be connected to the grid side (your image makes me think the solar inverter is connected in parallel with the rest of the house, which wouldn’t accomplish anything).
I made the victron OUT breaker a B-curve one (versus the regular C-curve breakers), because the victron can’t provide enough power on its own to trip a C-curve when in off-grid mode.
I’m assuming your EV charger has its own 4mA DC thingie? Otherwise you need to either add one of those, or (as I did) use type B diffs on the complete path from the grid to the EV charger.
Have fun building it all out
The big cables like the 5G10 might elicit some cursing, but otherwise it should all be quite pleasant.
Thanks for your feedback. Unfortunately, I rushed this a bit and made some (more) mistakes. This is my updated version.
The solar inverter is no longer behind the differential.
My 22 breakers are now spread across three 30 mA RCDs.
I changed the Victron OUT breaker to a B-curve type (instead of the standard C-curve), because the Victron cannot provide enough power on its own to trip a C-curve breaker in off-grid mode.
I’ll double-check and change that one later.
I’m assuming your EV charger has its own 6 mA DC protection? Otherwise, you need to either add one or (as I did) use type B RCDs along the entire path from the grid to the EV charger.
Yes, the Warp3 Pro charger has 6 mA DC leakage protection.
Could you please review the attachment again to confirm I didn’t miss anything?
Now it’s clear the remautomaat isn’t doing anything.
It’s supposed to avoid the possibility of 10A PV + 40A battery overwhelming the 40A diffs, but the PV is connected to the wrong side for that, it needs to be connected on the grid side of the remautomaat, along with the battery.
I hope I may bother you once again with an updated schematic. I have hopefully fixed it based on your feedback and also added the breaker for the VM3P75CT and the DC side of it.
I also separated things a little better.
If there is anyone willing to help me getting my setup up to code for an AREI inspection and make the single line drawing for me, I’m willing to pay for it.
Please DM or comment if you have the expertise to help!
I passed my inspection today. That makes it the third Victron system I’ve had approved so far. First one was in my previous house, second was on a friend’s installation, and this one is my current setup.