Broken at first intall

This happened at first install…
And now!?

What torque did you apply, I seem to remember those M8 are 12Nm?

Simon…

Set the tool at 12

I’m in shock also on how bad the repairability is on this model… :angry::face_with_steam_from_nose::scream:

I literally installed hundreds of different Victron devices and never managed to snapp a bolt.

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Yeah, it seems it does happen, though.
I’d appreciate some sudgestions.

Replace or dismantle and ‘desolder’ the bolt from the rear …
What other tips would you like to hear or read …
What performance data does the Multi have?

It is a 24-3000-70.
I tried to replace it, but it is indeed soldered (so it appears). I will try thank you.

if new, replace under warranty rather than dismantling the unit!@!

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Mechanical damage of that sort wouldn’t be a warranty claim, so self-repair may be the best option depending on the OP’s circumstances and abilities.

If no excessive torque was used, this it ought to be covered. (not saying its, but ought to be). Sometimes bolts are faulty too.

I can assure you that I did not apply any type of force more than what it was sudgested by Victron. From the clean cut and the fact that it basically fell into my hand, I’d say it was a defective piece. So, I definitly will submit a warranty claim.

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I believe that it is a warranty item as an authorized repair facility can properly repair the unit, functionally test it and put it back in stock with a full warranty.

But this problem provides a chance to learn:
Stainless on stainless with no lube is a recipe for galling of the nut to the stud. If a nut galls, it is game over. The only way that nut will be removed is with a Dremel. We use a conductive anti-seize paste (Permatex in the USA) on every stainless stud, Victron or not.

I’ve never owned a torque wrench, but… if that doesn’t explain why I should use one, nothing will. Good luck with your repairs - it adds character, personalisation.

Lets please be realistic, do most of you even know how much force you need to shear of an M8 bolt and how much force a human with a normal ratchet can produce? Its extremly unlikely that he just used a bit too much force.

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Its very easy to break an m8 bolt/stud/nut with hand tools.
As with all fasteners, anti gall paste must be used.

I don’t believe these are stainless steel parts, as has been suggested above - look at OP’s photo. These are plated brass or similar, and are probably quite soft.

For my part, I would be utterly astonished if a steel M8 bolt that was soldered onto a glorified PC board track at the back could be broken e.g. with a long socket wrench before the PC board track or the solder failed. The bolts being fitted here are, therefore, soft enough to break before the stuff they are soldered to does… Am I missing something here?

I like Victron’s stuff generally, but I don’t like the things that the big DC lugs get bolted onto. Google has numerous examples of these very same bolts breaking off, on the negative terminals too. It would be interesting to know how other manufacturers arrange this.

UPDATE: In Google images I can find pictures of Deye DC terminal connection bolts - I don’t like to mention another brand, but readers have to know the search term. But … err … I didn’t find pictures of broken ones on a quick search, something I can’t say about Victron.

this is TRUE ONLY if both nut and bolt are the same alloy. For instance, a 304 nut on a 316 bolt won’t likely seize. However, a lubricant gell is still recommended.
Stainless doesn’t solder easily, these are most likely nickle plated brass. However, a lot of heat will be needed to replace the bolt - it may be easier to drill the old one out before desoldering the remains of the head.

I also think so.
This refurbishing is better done at service center that has the proper soldering equipment. It will really be difficult to warm it up. For this contact are important soldering quality & resistance.

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@MikeD Thread Drift: What is your reference for 304/316 comment? All SS is austenitic and, as far as I know, therefore susceptible to galling. Further, in the field, the tech has no idea on whether the fasteners are 304 or 316.