Integration between Color Control GX and Sodium Battery 48TL200

Hello, i want to integrate the Color Control GX with my sodium batteries (Fiamm 48TL200), but, unfortunately the Collor Control GX does not support this batteries BMS, i want to develop the support. There's some tutorial or some kind of documents i can use to do this integration?

lucashubner asked
mvader (Victron Energy) commented ·

4 Answers

Battery / inverter recommendation

I am going to be installing an Onan QD5000 into my race truck motorhome but also want to run off batteries whenever possible ie. overnight and whilst on the road travelling (the generator will be great for big loads i.e tools etc when needed but obviously cant be running all the time and while travelling) we will be running 230v appliances (Fridge, TV, led lighting, microwave, combi boiler, charging phones / laptop).

I am looking for recommendations for batteries to look at and how long would i should expect these to last? agm vs lithium - id rather use agm due to costs. (im not sure what my average consumption will be as i haven't finished building the truck yet) and also what sort of recharge time would i get out of the generator to the batteries.

Adding to the above, what inverter would be best suited? and also are there any other related products i will need / will be of value to have.


thanks in advance.

barclay-89 asked
DeVo Tyler answered ·

3 Answers

Incorrect battery temperature displayed on VRM

[image]

Pylontech batteries sitting at 15c degrees on ccgx,however the VRM is indicating -273 c degrees!

[image]

Mark asked
Mark commented ·

1 Answer

ESS large battery draw on Scheduled Charge

System details :

  • MultiPlus-II 48/3000
  • Pylontech US2000B Plus 4.8kWh Li-Ion Battery
  • Venus GX
  • ESS

I'm running an ESS system and noticed that the startup of large AC loads are being powered from the battery / inverter when on scheduled charge. The scenario is as follows:

  • Scheduled charge period
  • Target charge has been reached
  • Grid is available
  • Zero PV

Under these conditions, my understanding is that the system should be relying on the grid to power the loads (with minor background losses). What I'm seeing is that the batteries are used to support the startup of large loads while the grid contribution is slowly ramped up over a few seconds. In the screenshot below, we were using a clothes iron that switched on and off frequently. This resulted in large loads being pulled from the battery each time the element switched on and corresponding charges pushed to the battery when the load switched off. Any way to change the behaviour and get the system to rely on the grid in this scenrio?


[image]

[image]

[image]


Here is less extreme example where a kettle is switched on and pulls 14A from the battery during a scheduled charge period:


[image]

kempza asked
nickdb commented ·

1 Answer

Quattro Compatibility with REVOV Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery

I currently have x15 Quattro48/10000 set up in a 3-phase configuration (5 units each phase). I am looking to retire the existing FLA battery bank and replace it with Lithium Iron Phosphate Batteries.

The supplier I have been in contact with is REVOV who claims that their batteries will work with Victron Quattros as they have other installations running a similar setup.

Does anyone have any insight or experience with REVOV batteries and if they work with the Quattro devices? I have attached the information on the REVOV batteries for reference.

Thank you.


1life REVOV_LiFeC8_Product_Specs_Oct2020_v9 (1).pdf

carver asked
Matthias Lange - DE answered ·

1 Answer

Did my battery just get too depleated?

[image]

I recently changed my AGM battery to a 102ah lithium set up in a mobile unit used for camping. The AGM only had 47ah and would not allow my 12v refrigerator to operate if I did not drive the truck every day. I thought the lithium would take care of the shortcomings of the AGM. Over Christmas I went camping and at first all was well. We run a fridge and 5 LED lights (lights only at night) we do have 6 USB ports for charging phones, etc. but not used continually. We camped two nights in a slightly shaded area. On the second night (6 days ago in the history) the fridge cut off during the night as it is designed to do when the voltage reaches 10.9 v...I assume, and the lights were dead the next morning as well. We moved locations and had sun most of the day while driving around (at least 5 hours of sun) That night (5 days ago in the history) about 8p.m. the fridge cut off again at about 10.9v but the lights stayed on. We went to bed with lights and the voltage reading showing 10.8 but the next morning no power at all. As the sun came up the panel started to collect sun as the voltage reading started to blink in a out as the volts increased. We moved yet again and drove around about 4 hours or so. At 8p.m. (4 days ago in the history)I turned the fridge off and went to bed with 11.6 showing on volt meter but by morning...again no lights. We packed up and drove home in a rainy and overcast day. The truck has been sitting in direct sun for about 9 hours each day with the fridge

[image]

on. It has not shut down and the voltage shows to be in the 13.0 -13.4 range. I attached pics of the history on the MPPT and noted those days in the above. Did I just not get enough sun? Is the battery bad perhaps? Do I need to add a dc-dc charger? Thanks for any input.

yelper asked
dbvanhorn commented ·

4 Answers

Lithium vs AGM

I plan to change my gel with lithium but I will leave the boat on the hard for 11 months per year for the next 5 years. After I will be on board 4 to 6 months a years. Has anyone any idea on what are the storage constraints for lithium and AGM knowing they will stay on board in countries there the boat will be at the time (. Mostly in the Mediterranean Sea). I will prefer lithium but it depends on how each system will behave for the 11 months. I have 400W of solar panels but I do not know if that will make a difference during these long periods. I will gladly hear any comment or advice. Thanks

ely asked
seb71 commented ·

3 Answers

Battery locations and overall system input? Any obvious mistakes?

I live full time in a 30’ class A RV and rarely have shore power. This is what i have so fart and the upgrade path i am looking at. any sort of input/advice from people who know more than me is really appreciated.

I have a total of six Costco golfcart batteries, 210 A/h each, running at 12V for a total of 630 A/h. Two batteries are under the hood and the other four are in the rear with 2000w inverter. There is a SCC connected close to each bank of batteries , so two SCC total. All batteries bought at the same time and are isolated from the starter battery but not each other. So was this a terrible idea? Should i move the two fron batteries to the rear or is this ok?


The 12v fuse panel for the RV was already in the rear next to the AC/DC charger, powered by the grid or the onboard generator and connected to the house batteries under the hood with 4 gauge wire running the length of the RV. Since this came from the factory, i figured it was ok. I didnt think it was a good idea to run the SCC through 30’ of wire If i didnt have to. There wasn’t enough room under the hood for all the batteries And I’d dont know how many amps the alternator puts out & that’s why i decided to put two in front and 4 in rear.


The front batteries have a 100/20 SCC and the rear have a 100/30. That maxes out at 50amps total for 630 a/h of batteries. I have six 100W panels total, mimicking the battery placement, two on the front SCC a four on the rear.

I plan on adding more panels as i go and will probably swap out and add more battery at some point, but i wanted to learn on cheap batteries that I could exchage easily if I kill them in under a year.


What i am thinking , unless i get told this was a stupid setup and have to change it, I want to add 6 more panels. Basically doubling the panels on each SCC in parallel. When i do that i will also swap the 100/30 for the 100/50 but leave the 100/20 up front. I realize that in full sun both SCC will be maxed out in current And will be wasting some.


My thinking is that the 100/30 puts out around 25amps with 400w in panels now, so I wouldn’t actually be wasting much but would improve my cloudy day performance. My understanding is that over paneling the current like this is ok as long as it never goes over the voltage hard limit of the SCC, which would be fine doubling the number if panels i have right now.


The panels are mounted on pallets, but not actually mounted on the roof so that i can prop them up facing the sun, which makes a big difference. When i add panels i plan on permanently mounting them to the roof. My thinking is that it is a good idea to have some i can set out direct sun, without having to be parked in the direct sun.


So, if you managed to read all this, thanks. Now what do you think of my setup and what, if anything should i change? Think my plan to over-panel is safe and ok?

faulkton asked
randy-putnam answered ·

2 Answers

Battery voltage drop when high load is connected

Hello,

I have installed the following off-grid system, which has been working pretty good for one year.

  • 4 300W solar panels
  • MULTIPLUS-II GX 48V
  • SMARTSOLAR MPPT 150/35 48V
  • 8 Acid Lead batteries of 6V each (Deka GC15)

However I'm wondering if the behavior I see when I plug a 1200W water heater during the central hours of the day is expected.

As you can see from following graphs the battery voltage drops when load is active and jumps back to an higher value afterwards.

Reading other posts on this subject I've got this is expected indeed, but my question is: do I have to worry about this voltage drop? In other words: should I power on the AC generator if the battery voltage goes down to 46V like in the picture below?

Thanks a lot,

Matteo


[image]

[image]

the-salmon asked
the-salmon commented ·

2 Answers

Low Battery Alarm at 48V in a ESS system

In my EasySolar 5000 system running ESS I get every morning a Low Battery at around 48 V and I can't figure out from where this Alarm (setpoint) is triggered.

[image]

The Low Battery parameter in the Multi are set as follows:

Inverter DC shut-down voltage
37.2
V
Inverter DC restart voltage
43
V
Low DC alarm level 42
V


The Dynamic cut-off settings in the ESS assistance is unchanged starting at 48V.
DVCC is not enabled. It is pretty hard to see where some effects/settings coming from with ESS, because a lot happens in the dark background (aka blackbox).

In addition, I run Gel batteries without BMS. Float voltage is at 55.2 V, Absorb. at 56.4 V.

lucode asked
bobac answered ·

1 Answer

MPPT to inverter without batteries

Hi everybody,

I'm currently searching for a way to power a load of 5A/230V with a few solar panel. According to my calculations, I should buy 4 solar panel of 360Wp, to power the 1150W needed. I want those solar panel to be connected to a MPPT and an inverter without any batteries between those two. The installation is completely PLC-controled and I want to power my load only when the sun shines. I will have a contactor to connect my load and my solar panel together.

Is it possible to connect my solar panels to an MPPT and in an inverter without batteries between ? I' do not have any acces to the electrical-grid.

Thanks for reading me,

Granville. A.


granvillea asked
Alexandra commented ·

1 Answer

Victron 60Ah AGM acceptable voltage drop under load

General question, I'm learning as I go ahead, and the more I progress the more I realise I don't know anything :-)


I have a small solar setup and my battery is a Victron Deep Cycle AGM 60Ah.


It is connected to a SmartSolar 75|10 and I monitor it via a SmartShunt.

The battery is used to power LED lights and give power to a couple of small electrical loads. Everything is connected to the load output of the charge controller, works perfectly fine. With the lights on I draw around 24W.

Battery charges correctly, everything is fine.

I also have (wired directly to the battery/shunt) a 1000W inverter.
It doesn't get used much, and generally with loads of about 50/150W for 10/15 minutes maximum.

So far so good.


I sometimes want to connect a much bigger load (air compressor). It runs for less than a minute generally, unless it is fully empty, in which case it will run for a couple of minutes, (but this case will happen less than once a month).

The compressor is rated at 700W. When used, the SmartShunt measures about 900W (and a healthy 86A) but the battery voltage drops down to 10.5 under that load.

The SmartShunt indicates about 20 minutes remaining energy (at 50% SoC) under that load.


I used it a couple of times to test it. Battery SoC went down about 10% (as indicated in the app), charged happily in the next day or so.


Questions are:

– how much would be an acceptable voltage drop under an heavy load for that AGM battery (cannot find data online)?

– any pointers on how to properly calculate battery capacity to run something like that?


Thanks in advance.

er-minio asked
michelg edited ·

3 Answers

Your experience selling your Victron devices after upgrade

As the title says, this is not a technical question.

This is related to the value of a Victron device after 3-4 years and how much is supported or not by Victron certified installers. Please share here what was you experience.


My case....in 4 years since I have the system, I did several changes/upgrades. Normally, I've tried all the time to recuperate some of the investment by selling the "old" devices...if 2-3-4 years means old. There were cases of buyers knowledgeable and experienced to install themselves....all the others I've recommended them to contact a certified Victron installer to support. There was no single case that an installer would support them.

Now, I'm selling 8 batteries Victron Gel 220Ah, 4 years old...that were in average for the 4 years duration discharged around 5%. In total I got 1.900KWh out of them, and based on the last months reports out of VRM they have more than 96% health and an internal resistance between 3 and 4 miliohm.

One possible buyers, after discussing with a certified Victron installer was told they are not recommending these batteries, as they are old, and they can vouch only for Lithium. I would say great, but then Victron please stop selling any other type of batteries other than Lithium...or update the specs papers, and reduce the lifespan to 3-4 years.

Cristian Miclea asked
Matthias Lange - DE answered ·

3 Answers

NiFe battery with multi 24/3000/70 what are the recommended settings

I'm attracted to these batteries as a long term asset. Should I go DC coupled? AC coupled? Where can I find other users with nickel iron experience?

fungi asked
marekp commented ·

16 Answers

Battery problem

Hi I have 4x agm 12v 230ah batteries in a row in my 48v system. Everythink is working finde so far. But one of the batteries is all the time 0.2 volts below the other and while chargeing 02-0.4 volts above chargevoltage. Is the battery defect. Should I try the reconditioning programm on the charter?

skykay asked
lucode answered ·

1 Answer

Battery Corrosion / Sulfation

Hello,

i bought this battery (Victron GEL - Deep Discarge, 12V 220Ah) "used" for a good price, but of cause at one point I get the bill for buying "the cheap deal"...

Yesterday I noticed a strange type of corrosion/sulfation at the +Pole. See the pictures. (please excuse the dirt on the batteries, we live in the wilderness for two months now...) It looks like the sulfation is pushing out of a invisible gap between the pole-metal and the insulation material. (the sulfation on the red cable is only there, because it was resting closer to the pole before taking the picture). Also you can notice a super thin layer of liquid, more like "it looks humid", on the surface of the battery.

So far i cannot notice any lack in the performance... loads well, holds the charge and has no noticable drop in Ah.

Internet says in general about batteries (mostly about car starter batteries) to simply carefully clean it off, with the right tools and cleaner.

I just wanted to know if anyone has experienced this as well and:

- can i continue using it, of cause accepting that it gets worse over time...? Is it safe to continue using it, or do i have to replace it imediately? (can it burn or explode or anything?)

- is there any way to try to seal it again? (probably not...)

- if it is pushing out of that gap, what does it tell me about my setup? (is it simply the battery broken?)

(Or, what could be as well: is the temperature where i keep the battery, too hot, so that it over-loads it and its pushing out? It is set up with a Victron Smart MTTP 100/50 nearby inside of a caravan, we are in Turkey, when the sun is out, it can get really hot in here, but the corrosion/sulfation happened very lately, when it was not as hot anymore... i was hoping that the temperature sense of the MPPT was close enough to the batteries so that it could choose the right amount of charging... no additional temperature sensor at the batteries in use...)

Any thoughts and tipps appreciated! :) Thank You in advance

[image]


[image]

habi asked
elimac answered ·

1 Answer

Pylontech and Victron (New Build) : Help Needed

Hello Everyone,


I have just joined this community so please bear with me.


I recently had a battery installed removed from my property as it did not do what i expected off the shelf. It was manufactured by a company called GivEnergy and it was a very poor product with many development issues.

Now i have decided to go out this myself.

I am looking at utilising either the Multiplus or Quattro Units along with Pylontech Batteries and wondered if you had any advice, comments or examples of system design/schematics.

The system is to integrate with an already install SolarEdge 6000 HD Inverter for my PV.

I am looking for storage capacity of approximately 21kw, so utilising the Pylontech 3000 Series batttery. The biggest request i have for the system is having a large discharge power as I have a Air Source Heat Pump which can take up to 5kw for Water Heating.


My idea was to use the Quattro 8000 Unit having the batteries wired in a stack of 8 with a ring circuit back to a DC Distribution. The batteries are to be controlled using a GX Device.


My question really revolves, any lessons learned? Does anyone have any advice on the Quattro and GX Devices.

Am i doing the right thing with this?

Any help is greatly appreciated.


Thanks

Mike







mikeseaman3000 asked
mikeseaman3000 commented ·

1 Answer

Welche Einstellung im Menu für den Batterietyp bei Blei Säure im MPPT 100/20

[image]

[image]

Hallo Gemeinde, ich habe seit kurzem einen MPPT 100/20 und daran eine 55 Ah und eine 45 Ah Blei Säure Batterie angeschlossen, jetzt habe ich versucht diese im Menü einzustellen aber die Auswahl für diesen Batterietyp gibt es nicht !

Welche Einstellung muß ich wo verwenden für diesen Batterietyp ???

T. Jahr asked
T. Jahr answered ·

2 Answers

Is it possible to mix Pylontech US2000 and US3000?

Hi, does it work if i start with an US3000, that i later add an US2000 to the system....or an US2000 requires an US2000 and they cannot be mixed up?

Kind Regards

Norbert

njordan asked
james commented ·

4 Answers

Victron Quattro coupled to NiFe battery bank

Hi,

I am examining the systems architecture of a quattro 48/15000/200-100/100 VE.Bus 48V 15000W VA 200A Inverter Charger, Coupled to a NiFe (nickel iron) battery bank, comprising of 1.2v x 40 cells. Fundamentally, they are a relatively safe, extremely robust solution, that can stand up to DOD's that would finish Li banks, that leaves other battery technologies in their wake, as long as, you are prepared for the top up requirements.

I am looking for someone that has attempted this solution. generally, the 4 brands of NiFe cells, have a specification as follows, with small variation;

Chemical System - Nickel Iron (NiFe)

Battery Type - Rechargable Deep Cycle, Flooded with Alkaline Electrolyte Electrolyte Chemistry Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) And Lithium Hydroxide (LiOH)

Electrolyte Refresh Rate Suggested every 7-10 years to sustain maximum performance Terminal Poles, Cell-To-Cell Busbars Nickel-Plated Steel, Tinned Copper Cell Container Translucent, Corrosion-Free Polypropylene or ABS Engineering Plastic Vents Flame-Arresting Flip-Top Vents

Nominal Voltage -1.2 Volts (per cell)

Charging Voltage - 1.65 Volts (per cell)

Efficiency - 80% Cycle Life 11,000 Cycles At 80% Depth Of Discharge

Float Life / Shelf Life - 30 Years / 85 Years

Optimum Charge & Discharge Current C/4

Minimum Charging Current -C/20

Maximum Continuous Charging Current C/2

Maximum Pulsed Charging Current 1C

Maximum Discharge Current C/2

Self-Discharge Rate 1% per day

Operating Temperature -30⁰ C To +60⁰ C (-22⁰ F To +140⁰ F)

I would like to hear from people that have done a implementation, of a quattro and NiFe cells, to understand where the stumbling block might be.


owenski asked
petajoule answered ·

1 Answer

Can I remove 4 batteries from this setup?

I have 2 batteries on each of my 2 Cummins engines at 12 volts and 4 batteries for my bow thruster at 24 volts. Can I eliminate the 4 engine batteries and tie them into my thruster batteries assuming the bow thruster is not on a common ground? See Pic

[image]

kurt404 asked
kurt404 answered ·

3 Answers

EasySolar 24/1600/40, GEL-Batteries, How to set up for heavy Loads?

Hello,

I am completely Off-Grid, so no AC-Charging or Power.

I have two 12v220Ah-GEL Batteries connected in series to the EasySolar, I was told by the seller that it would be best for the batteries to not load them with more than 0.1C, that means 22A. (First question, is this true?)

So I set up my MPPT charger to load the batteries with max 25A (i have a fridge running all the time...).

As the seller told me as well, it is also most healthy for the batteries to not unload them with more than 0.1C, which is again 22A, in a 24V system this means i can use a maximum of 528Watt if i want to be nice to the GEL-batteries. ;)

But in the future i might want to use heavier Loads, lets say a vacuum cleaner with 1200Watt. The Inverter of the EasySolar can do it, and with a max of 1400Watt on the MPPT100/50, it should be able to do it completely with sunlight.

Now since i understand it would not be good for the GELs to suck the 1200Watts out of them, i wanna vacuum only during a sunny day.

But My MPPT Charger is set to a maximum of 22A on the Load.

The Question:

In order to use full power of the solar panels, do I have to manually lift this limit, everytime when I want to use my vacuum or another heavy load, and then, when i am done using the load, do i have to set it back to 22A-25A in order to not damage my batteries? Or did i miss another spot in the settings, where i can solve this issue, so that it switches automaticly?


Thanks in advance!

habi asked
habi answered ·

2 Answers

Gel 12v/220 ah battery terminals

Have ordered victron 12/220 gel batteries for an installation. Cannot find a clear picture of the battery and terminals. Some pics show the terminals on the narrow side , some on the large/wide side. Need to anticipate to build the proper rack. Can someone tell me where are the terminals on the gel 12/220 and may be send me a picture ?

Thanks


Herve RV Nizard asked
Herve RV Nizard answered ·

2 Answers

12V batteries (110Ah and 220Ah) in parallel using MPPT 75 / 15

Batteries have different capacity; is it advise to connect them in parallel? or should I use an Argo FET battery isolator?

[image]


ant13 asked
offgridsolutions answered ·

1 Answer

Why do Battery Temps vary widely between SmartShunt & MPPT, Multiplus and SmartLithium

Below are several iOS VictonConnect screens show seemingly significant Battery Temperature differences.

My SmartShunt has battery temp sensor and shares to MPPT over VE Smart Network and they read 88, which is also the ambient temp.

The Multiplus shows 96 and the Smart Lithium displays 94.


[image]

[image]





[image]

[image]

[image]

vanman asked
Jesse answered ·

1 Answer

Pylontech Battery Temperature Missing During PassThru

Previously I have seen my system go into Passthru once (in 6 months) It didn't cause any issues and hence I just left it... but last week I saw it go into passthru three times in a day, and it seems that every time it went into passthrough the battery temperature went missing...


Now leading to my questions:

1. Is this normal?

2. Is this a known issue and has anyone else experienced this? and finally,

3. Is there a way to correct this?


Regards

Ewald


The battery is a Pylotech 2.4kWh and is connected to a Venus Gx via Can bus.

[image]

[image]


Zoomed in section

[image]

[image]

ewalderasmus asked
Daniël Boekel (Victron Energy Staff) commented ·

2 Answers

Victron Quattro 48/15000/200-100/100 - Best battery technology

Hi, i am a recent purchaser of the Quattro 48/15000 and are looking for a suitable battery bank, ideally 1200ah. As i see it, the options are;

NiFe (needs 40 cells for 48v, large physical foorprint, low powered, unbreakable, huge DOD and recovery, flushed out every 7~8 years, 30+ years lifespan, )

Sealed Lead Acid (limited lifespan, old school tech, all the negatives of SLA batteries)

Sealed Lead Carbon (12 ~ 15 years lifespan, slightly better DOD)

LiFePo (5 ~7 years lifespan, can react badly, on incorrect charging, expensive for the return)



owenski asked
ejrossouw answered ·

1 Answer

What are the disadvantages of lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries?

In addition to the price, what are the disadvantages of lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries?

If the price of lifepo4 comes down, will no one buy the lead-acid battery?

lucas-mill asked
merlepeter answered ·

8 Answers

Quick charge option for ESS?

Is there some option (that I might be missing) in remote console (or VRM or wherever) to activate an immediate charge from grid state? I know of the schedule options, but sometimes we (in South Africa) will hear about an impending grid failure (load shedding) a few hours in the future, and the battery SOC might not be as desired ahead of that. It would be nice to have an option to just tell the system to charge from grid right now, perhaps until some kind of settable SOC and/or time limit or so. Let's say my battery is at 50%, and I hear there will be 2.5hrs of loadshedding in an hour from now, I'd like to be able to select a quick charge option, set it to (say) 80% SOC and 55min time limit, and have it start immediately. Right now (unless I'm missing something) I need to add a new schedule to start in a few minutes and it's a lot more keystrokes in a sense to get to what I really want: charge now.


(apologies if this has been asked and answered, I did try to search for something similar, but could not find anything)


--

multiplus II 5000, 4x 3.5kWh pylontech, 150/100 MPPT, venus GX

gyrovague asked
Guy Stewart (Victron Community Manager) answered ·

1 Answer

24v battery setup with 12v output

Q1: I would like to add a second battery to my current 12v system. It currently has a 210ah agm and I was wondering if it would be best to wire the second one in as a 24v setup or keep it simply as a 12v?


Q2: If I did do a 24v battery setup will my 75/20 automatically output 12v or will it only do a 24v output without another device to covert it?

Regards

luke-martin asked
ash answered ·

2 Answers