good evening to all,
can anyone tell me the field values (minimum and maximum), which must have the potential to be connected to the skilla 24v?
I have a similar query to the original question “MPPT 75/10 INVALID HISTORY”
posted on JUly 10.
I can understand the original explanation about the MPPT only distinguishing a day by the commencement & finish of solar charging, but can’t understand why it would vary the previous days readings each day. If it can’t distinguish a day/night cycle in the first case, how can it cycle through each day in the 28 cycle. I’m a little confused about the latter.
Hi, I have a 190ah LFP battery going in to an ammo can which will be in my truck bed. I'd like to heat the box using small ~25w heat strip(s) when the battery is too cold to charge, but only if it was going to charge in the first place.
What I mean by that, is that if it's the middle of the night and below freezing, don't bother because there's no sun to charge with anyway. Similarly, if I have a foot of snow on the panels and it's freezing outside, don't bother because the panels might not even produce enough voltage to initiate a charge cycle.
I was thinking some combination of the street light function, load ouput, and BMV low temperature relay setting could accomplish this. Likely easily with the ability to invert the streetlight functionality but I do not think that's possible from my research. Maybe some NC relay that the streetlight triggers when it'd normally be operating an actual streetlight (night?)
Any ideas appreciated!
I have 3 installations in my home in AC coupling. The grid is here only when the SOC is under 50% controled by CCGX.
When i don't go to the Works in week end, the batteries are Full and the Labo are Full too and i need energy for my Home and sometimes the Soc is under 50 %, i don't want to take the Grid.
When i go to Works or Labo in the week, my Home is Full and i need energy for Works or Labo. I always disconnect from grid when the SOC is upper than 60%.
How can i share this Full batteries beetwen Home Works and Labo ?
How can i install and configure to make a MicroGrid ?
Where i can connect the 4kWc ?
Does anyone know what the max peak current (250A) time is on the BatteryProtect 48V-100A? It's listed as 30s on the data sheet for the 12/24V version but its silent on the 48V data sheet..
By mistake the original temp sensor is lost. What is inside it? NTC or? What happens if I use the charger without the sensor? Does it default to 25 degrees Celcius or? The batteries will never be hot in this application. (In a cellar under a summer cottage) So there is no danger of overcharging.
Does the VE.Bus BMS protect 2 LFP Smart 12,8/60 batteries connected in series when a 1200A is being drawn from them? is there an overcurrent protection?
Regarding the BMV712 Smart, for how long the historical data will be kept?
Regarding the LFP battery operation:
1) Does the VE Bus BMS disconnect the charge and discharge signal if the AMBIENT temperature is 50? Or when the BATTERY CELL temperature is 50?
2) What is the specific heat capacity of the LFP battery? (J/kg.k)
3) What is the internal resistance of the LFP battery?
I have a Multi II with a 7.4kWh lithium and 4.3kWp PV and Smart Solar 250/100 coordinated via CerboGX on ESS with self consumption and battery life optimisation
I’ve noticed that when there is grid interruption there is an output break of sorts lasting millisecs. The ledTV, AV system, satellite TV decoder (reboots) and fridge all see the break. These devices have surge protectors I must add (could they be reading the millisecs changeover as a surge?).
When grid is restored the same thing happens. I didn’t have this with a Voltronics inverter. Sometimes even with stable grid sometimes it happens. With grid around this is preceeded by a humming sound from the multi. I cannot speak to the quality of the grid. We are coming from 12hr load-shading in last year or two so supply is meant to be stabilising. Quality issues on frequency affecting Multi?
To stop this annoying ke I switch off AC supply to the multi. But I had needto switch it back on and noticed this issue when there was a 5hr grid interruption. Anyonecare to explain this?
i can run offgrid but do need grid to support load when batt goes below 20% as set in ESS. if off I do get wuite low at times. System can be viewed here:
martinkeogh2 answered · 1
I was successful measuring the mid point on my 12volt house battery system (2 × 6volt Batterys in series) up until yesterday. Now they are not reading accurately. 2 volts lease than actual. I have also try this on my start battery (24 volts) and this input is measuring 5 volt less than actual.
Can I use the Smart Shunt’s ve direct port to put a Bluetooth dongle on an extension for additional coverage? Also can Smart Shunt use the ve direct to USB cable to connect to a computer?
I have following components
the ET112 is installed on the AC Input side of the multiplus, my AC Loads are connected on the AC Output 1 side, on that there are also the 5 EVT300 with Solar panels
Is it possible to addPV Inverter Power widget in that graphic ?
Or do I need a second grid meter ? Or do I need to installe the ET112 on the AC Output side ?
My inverter keeps restarting every 20mins or so, shows low battery solid light then goes back to inverting after like 5 -10 seconds.
I have lead-acid batteries connected to the Multiplus 24/3000
Hi, i see since last week that the calculation on the Octo GX are wrong.
the show me on the Batterie -27 Watt, but in the summary consumation 70 Watt.
Multiplus are off, Solar Charger are off.
Any Idea, what happens with the wrong calculation?
Hi, I would like some further information on why its okay to use a Cyrix Li-CT to combine your Starter battery to your Lithium batteries?
-Wouldn't there be a possible chance that you can overcharge your start battery as the Lithium will be just continually taking as much amps as possible?
-When charging via solar or shore power you will also have your batteries combined.
-I wouldn't think that have a Gel or Lead acid battery connected into your Lithium system would be a great idea
Wouldn't putting a 3 stage regulator (so the alternator doesn't burn out) on your alternator to charge your lithium and then a DC-DC charger to your starts be the safest option?
Looking for the best and safest way to utilize the alternator in lithium installs.
Hi all. My currently solar setup on my campervan is as follows:
250W PV > 30A charge controller > 12V leisure battery.
I have just bought an E-bike which runs off a 48V lithium battery that I would like to be able to charge from both the solar panel and the 12V leisure battery (when charging overnight). My current charge controller can only charge a 12/24V battery so am looking at buying the Victron 100|20 controller that can charge a 48V battery.
- If my solar panel is only pulling in 30V, will my 48V lithium battery still charge?
- Can I charge my 48V battery from the 12V leisure battery without using an inverter? If so, what do I need to do it safely?
I have a victron system in my newly outfitted van. I was attempting to connect to the app for the first time. The app wanted to run an update which disabled my system. However the system is still down and I have no electricity - lights, water pump, router/modem - nothing is being powered. Does anyone know how to get my system back up or what caused it to completely stop working? Thank you!
I recently had my RV in for service. It was there for about 18 days. I must have left the water pump on by mistake. When I went to pick the RV up the batteries were completely dead. The "phantom load" (Propane detector, radio, etc.) should not have depleted 180 Ah of batteries. My guess is the water pump kept cycling till the batteries were dead. When I hooked up to shore power after about 15 minutes the BMV said State of Charge was 100%. I know this can not be correct. Is it possible to get a false reading on "dead" batteries, or are my batteries "dead" and no longer accepting a charge? I know you are not suppose to let Lead Acid batteries go below 50%. Can a 1 time complete discharge kill the batteries. Any info and tips would be appreciated.
This is how I am planning in wiring my off grid tiny house on wheels (essentially a caravan) and just wanted to see if anyone can see any issues with it? Is the earth circuit correct? Photo attached.
I haven't drawn any of the AC side of of the installation for the purposes of this diagram but I'd like to add that in addition to the connections in this diagram, I will also have:
-All the earth's from my AC loads will connect back to my negative buss bar
-A large cable (same size as battery cable) joining my negative buss bar to the trailer chassis.
Another note - The reason I have run the MPPT positive cable through the other pole on my DC isolator is because when I switch that off I want everything to stop, including the charging of my batteries. I realise I can just turn the PV isolator switches off and achieve the same result, but I want it all to turn off with the flick of one switch.
Sorry for the long winded question and thank you in advance!
I have MPPT 100/30 and Victron connect shunt with a battleborn lithium 100 amp battery. I diagramed my system same as Farout ride but only have one panel and battery; much smaller system. Last night, entire system dies including connect reader. sun came up today and I have power again but mppt was in float saying batter 100% charge and volts only at 10.89. Victron connect says same thing. Voltmeters as well, 10.89. I tried resetting the mppt and shunt by disconnecting solar, then battery to solar, then negative to shunt. Hooked all back up now MPPT is flashing bulk blue light. I am a novice. Yesterday it was 80 degrees out. Obviously the battery is not charging. Any suggestions?
How long does the Smart Battery Sense stored data onboard, it appears that no data is stored on the unit itself, so if out of Bluetooth range, will no 12v battery data be logged and therefore no available later?
Maybe I am missing something, but I can't seem to be able to output the temperature sensors connected to my Venus GX to NMEA2000.
I can see every other detail from my Victron System on NMEA2000 but not the GX Temperature sensors.
What am I doing wrong?
How do you change the maximum input current? (Setting 21) The setting isn't highlighted in the Tsconfig Software.
I have an older Skylla-I, and will change my lead acid bank to lifepo4.
The older Skylla-i does not have a pre-programmed lithium setting. Is there a way to tackle this problem, or should I scrap my charger?
Help much appreciated!
I have new 200ah lithium batteries I torqued to 19ft/lbs but worked lose
What’s correct setting
Hello, Is it possible to use the EasySolar II to charge an EV ?
What I mean is just used it 'islanded' to change a electric vehicle directly.
Solar panels > EasySolar II > EV
Well, slightly disappointed here...
have the following:
3 smart MPPT chargers
2 smart battery connects
Smart Orion TR (dc to dc)
And cerbo GX with touch 50
Everything except the multiplus is visible in the VictronConnect connect app.
The cerbo GX is in the list but nothing talks to it?? Why is it not possible to connect to it to the VE.smart network??
If I’ve got to connect everything via cables then was a bit pointless buying the Bluetooth versions of everything? And as the Orion didn’t have ve connection cerbo GX won’t see it all?!
Am I just missing something here or as this a complete waste of money
I'm thinking of getting this for a 2004 Ford Transit conversion, charging LifePo battery. Will this work on any alternator, also the dumb ones? In the description it says "Suitable for use in vehicles with intelligent alternator (Euro 5 and Euro 6 engines) ". But since its an older van, I have no idea if it has a "intelligent alternator".
Hi all. I have installed a Orion TR B2B and would like some advice on the settings.
I have an AGM battery. I setup the setting on the pre-set AGM spiral cell setting which will be the following.
Absorption voltage 14.7v
Float Voltage 13.8v
Bulk time limit 10h
re-bulk voltage offset 0.4v
adaptive absorption time on
max absorption time 6h
We run our battery down by 12% which is shown on our capacity gauge. When we was driving at first it was charging all ok then at 91% charge the B2B stopped charging saying the battery was fully charged. Not good as it was not fully charged.
I do not know what setting to change so I changed it to Factory default and it started charging again but factory default states LifePo4
Setting for this are
Absorption voltage 14.2v
Float Voltage 13.5v
Bulk time limit greyed out
re-bulk voltage offset 0.1v
adaptive absorption time off
Fixed absorption time 2h
What should be my ideal setting as at the moment I am not getting 100% charge making this device unusable
ich habe ein Problem mit der Feststellung des Ladezustandes des Akkus.
Ich lade den Akku, sobald ich Landstrom habe, da wir die Solarmodule noch nicht installiert haben. Am Akku habe ich eine kleine Last 5- 7W, die ständig läuft. (LTE-Modul, RASPI) Nun bekommt der BMV nicht mit, ob der Akku geladen wird. das bedeutet, dass auf Grund der Last die scheinbare Batterieleistung stetig nach unten geht. Obwohl der Akku voll ist, habe ich nun eine angegebene Ladung von 0%. Entweder fehlt mir noch etwas oder ich habe etwas falsch geschaltet.
Es wäre schön, wenn jemand eine Idee hat, denn so kann ich das System nicht nutzen.