The project that I am currently working on has 6 mppt 150/35 smart solar controllers. I would like to have them all being monitored using the cerbo gx and Victron Connect. I would like to use VE.Direct to connect all 6 smart solar controllers. Would it be possible to add an additional Cerbo GX on the same network, giving me the additional 3 VE.Direct ports needed to monitor all 6 mppt smart solar controllers.
[image]If the AC PV export counter is in such a place, and total AC PV limit set to equal the 1:1 rule would such a setup be in theory possible?
Been offline for 12 days. None of the other articles describe how to fix the issue. An answer that describes how to fix this issue would be helpful, and appreciated.
Hi. can anyone confirm that "DC input pre-alarm" setting on multiplus is the level at which VRM triggers a "low battery warning" when configured to do so?
I want to recieve a warning when my batteries reach 50% DoD but not shutdown the inverter..
I use a BVF300 (non victron) board to turn off my loads at 75% DoD but that does not report to the multiplus so I can't get VRM alarms from it.
System is SmartSolar 75/15 with two series-connected 30W 12V solar panels charging two 12V 110Ah lead acid batteries connected in parallel. Settings are all default for lead acid except float voltage reduced to 13.5V from 13.8V. The system was installed in 2018 and was working correctly when we left the boat in october 2019.
Covid then prevented return until last week, when we found the blue light on the charger flashing indicating no charge being delivered despite sunshine and a battery voltage of 10.4V. After connecting to the controller and updating firmware, it seems that charging had somehow been switched off in the controller at some point during the two years absence, with no charging for the previous month's history and presumably for some time before that.
After recharging the batteries (which appear to be still partially functional) and re-enabling charging the controller again seems to be operating correctly.
So my question is under what circumstances does the controller decide to disable charging? (I don't even remember that option being present in the software in 2019 - maybe it's a more recent addition?) And is there anything I should do to prevent a similar incident in future?
'05 Tundra, on Battery Tender, Smart Alternator, motor off, DC/DC setting on 'Charge' but steady green LED is on....when I open the breaker the green LED goes out and no 'output' then shows on the Vic Connect DC/DC screen....
2 possible meanings according to Victron....In 'Power Mode', it is not or in " 'float stage' [battery charged]".
Sooooo, what is happening?
The “register for free account” option ont he VRM doesn’t appear to be working.
Filled out the form with 2 different email addresses yesterday both said check your email for the confirmation email. Neither received confirmation emails...
Checked the mail server logs neither saw emails for those email addresses from Victron servers... in fact checked all mail servers for all domains and can’t find any emails from a victron servers.
Last week i bought 320 watt pannels
A victron 100/30 smart mppt
A victron mini bms
One victron 100ah smart lifepo4
An victron ip22
Although i am familiar with solar systems (pwm / agm ) im having massive problems making the system work. The mailorder i got the components from cant help me either.
I installed the victron app tried to charge the battery with the ip22 to give it a full charge as requested . After a while i got a warning on my phone that the cells are unbalanced. So i stoped the charge.
Is there a second app that i missed that makes the components talk to each other instead of talking to my phone? I couldnt set up a network between the battery and the chargers. Do i need something else to make this system work?
The system is going to be installed in an rv.
No fancy bs.
Dont need any displays.
Just want it to work.
Should i just switch back to agm/ pwm?
Seems a bit like rocket sience to me and hard to deal with if youre taking into consideration that i spend 2k and no one is having a clue...
I would appreciate if someone could help me to work this out so i dont have to ship the stuff back.
We just bought a 2022 Intech Sol Horizon Rover Camper Trailer. We had our dealer install a solar package that Included 300 watts of panels to a SmartSolar 100/30 MPPT feeding dual 120Ah Lithium batteries (240ah Total) with Monitoring via the BMV-712. (See the picture below)
We haven't had it but a few days but I would like to add a Phoenix Inverter 12/1200 and connect it to our existing breakers by way of our Progressive Dynamics PD4135. I realize I need a transfer switch, either manual or automatic, and will need to turn off the converter manually in the PD4135 every time I want to run off the inverter.
am trying to enable battery monitoring on my EasySolar II GX,
What is the value for the battery capacity needed once i check "enable battery monitor" ?
My battery bank consists of 4 x 200AH batteries, so the battery capacity should be 800AH (whole bank) or 200AH (1 battery) ?
I'm new to the forum but have been looking for an answer. I have two Multiplus 12/3000 inverters with a Venus GX (and additional Victron solar items as well) in a motorhome. These were all purchased in last 90 days or so, so fairly new hardware. The motorhome is wired in split phase and everything works 100% of the time when i'm on a 50amp standard USA RV service. My setup also cuts over to my QD1000 generator flawlessly and everything works fine.
My issue is when i'm plugged into a 30amp single phase plug. When I am, I understand normal operation "should" be that my master inverter will invert and charge the battery and my slave inverter will simply invert. This is a Victron limitation on single phase power as i understand it which is fine. My question is. When i'm plugged into a single phase 30amp plug, neither the master nor slave inverter will recognize the AC input. The input shows in the Venus panel as there on both legs (single phase on both legs because of the 50a to 30a dogbone adapter that pairs the single phase 120v to both legs) but the units will not initiate a charge, its basically like i never plugged anything in at all. See attached screenshot. Any advice on what setting may be causing this to occur? I'm fine with only one inverter charging, i just need to understand why thats not happening..
Any helps or advise would be greatly appreciated.
J'envisage d'utiliser un EasySolar II GX 3000/48 avec ESS plutot qu'un Imeon pour réaliser une installation en autoconsommation avec sortie secourue de 3kWc, avec deux modules de batterie Pylontech, et avec vente du surplus.
Seulement pour être OK consuel avec un chargeur MPPT 250/70, il faut ajouter un CPI coté photovoltaique, et je n'arrive pas à trouver d'appareils abordables, je n'ai rien trouvé à moins de... 3800€ !!
Avez-vous connaissance d'appareils pouvant faire l'affaire, et chez quel fournisseur ?
I have a faulty colour control GX. The screen lights up but is white with no functions working. The unit was purchased in Greece but I live in the UK. Is it necessary to post the unit to Greece or could a local dealer process my warranty claim?
EasySolar 24/3000/70 Fw version 2.51 Grid and solarpanels 2kWp connected.
+ Battery Victron smart 25,8V/200Ah ESS assistant installed.
I want to set ESS for maximum self-consumption but I don't see the option 'control without grid meter' . The battery is fully charged from the grid and the consumption also comes completely from the grid, even though the battery is 100% charged and the sun is shining.
I bought a 220 amp smart battery protect recently as apart of a project in my motorhome. My motorhome has a battery to battery 50amp, 30 amp mains charger, 30 amp solar charger, 1600 watt pure sine inverter, 280 watt solar and 330 amp batteries. Its all from Sterling Power and works very very well. I had the idea that when the batteries were full on solar I could then use the excess energy to hear the water. The water heater is a Truma 10lt boiler that can be used on gas or mains electric. The element is only 450 watt so doesn't take a long time to hear up and switch off via a thermostat. Anyway the idea was that I would use the smart battery protect to switch the inverter off if there wasn't enough power in the sun to keep the batteries afloat, cut off if they got to low and start up when the batteries were good to go again.
What I didnt fully appreciate is that you cannot directly connect the inverter to the SBP without frying it as the capacitors draw a huge sudden current draw on re-connection. Had a think about this and I came up with the idea of using the SBP to monitor the battery voltage and switch a 3 amp AC relay that is 12v controlled to disconnect the boiler element. The 220 amp SBP is a bit over the top then but I will keep it anyway incase I use it for another project.
Does this seam like the best route or is there another way. I also thought that this would be a better way of doing this as it would allow other devices to remain connected e.g. small laptop charger.
I have bought 3 x Orion 12-12-30's but if they are not made to work in parallel, please let me know so I can get a refund before my return receipt expires.
eg. Do the software/hardware allow without conflict? etc
(Mercedes Sprinter 200amp alternator, multiplus 3000W, 300ah Victron battery etc)
(Or is a different alternator required?)
In the manual, it's mentioned to put a fuse on the neutral wire when connecting the ET112 (https://www.victronenergy.com/live/energy-meters:et112), but it doesn't state what type of fuse?
There's not much information to be found. A manual from Carlo Gavazzi makes it look like this is optional (https://gavazziautomation.com/images/PIM/DATASHEET/ENG/ET112_DS_ENG.PDF), but it's not clear at all.
On my camper van I have an easysolar unit charging the 24V house batteries.
There's a basic Orion 24/12 for the light 12V loads which also feeds the a votronic trickle charger for the starter battery. With 600W solar, this would be enough without mains hookups.
As winter draws in I realised that if I want to spend a lot of time off grid, the solar feed won't be enough.
Was thinking of adding an Orion 12/24 10 smart charger to charge the house battery when I'm driving.
Anyone done this? Anything to watch out for?
Hello currently I have 8x 280Wp panels a Multiplus2 and mppt150/70 as batteries I have 2x 12v 230Ah AGM batteries connected to 24V. Now I would like to expand my system by 20x 250Wp panels. I would connect these with 2x mppt 100/50 but I wonder how I can limit the charging current but still use full power on the multiplus.
Glad about any help.
Hallo aktuell habe ich 8x 280Wp panels einen Multiplus2 und mppt150/70 als Batterien habe ich 2x 12v 230Ah AGM batterien zu 24V verbunden. Nun würde ich gerne mein system um 20x 250Wp panels erweitern. Ich würde diese mit 2x mppt 100/50 anschliesen nur frage ich mich wie ich da denn ladestrom limitieren kann aber trozdem volle leistung am multiplus verwenden kann.
Freue mich über jede hilfe.
I have just installed a Multiplus 12/1600/70 into my campervan. I have two 120ah L:ithium batteries. As I don't currently have a pc or laptop I just did the dip switch install and I'm not convinced its set up right. The inverter side is working fine. But the charging side I'm not too sure. The first time I tried it the batteries were about 90% full the charger kicked straight in. The fans sparked up. It charged for about five or ten minutes then the alarm light came on with the fans still running.
So I have run the batteries down and then tried charging again. This was a little more successful but as the batteries got full I was off to bed and didn't want to leave it turned on.
So the question is would I be better not using the charging side until I can set it up with the software as I am getting and Ipad pro. Will this be ok to use?? I hope this makes sense? It's the first time on the forum. Cheers.
I would like to have some clarification about internal details of MPPT RS 450/200.
MPPT RS 450/200 has 4 MPPT trackers in it.
Does it mean that 4 independent PV arrays can be connected?
My network cant detect the Wifi for my EasySolar II GX, which was working properly yesterday.
am not sure if i made any changes that caused this as this is a new system setup and i was trying to figure things out.
Any ideas on how can i get the Wifi show up again ?
I tried the reset button but nothing changed.
This is my first post and i tried google, youtube, Insta etc for help. My 712 was working fine and it showed the correct numbers but suddently it shows the wrong Voltage. For the starter Battery it is 0,03 and for the House it is between 0.3 and 0.4 Volt. I tried to hard reset the monitor, plugged of the cable for 20 minutes. Also the Shunt Connection has the correct Voltage. So instead of 13.6 on the house it shows 13.3 and for the starter it i 12.71 instead of 12.74
we also checked the batteries, they are in a good condition.
I hope someone can help and it is just a minor Problem.
I'm a boat owner with a 12v to 24v (27.5v out) Orion Switch Mode Isolated DC/DC Converter that has blown either due to age or maybe salt water contamination. (...or both...)
I can easily find and replace burned components, but I need help to identify them please?
Any other related advice and opinions are also appreciated.
Excuse me, there are two batteries on my boat, A is STARTER BATTERY (70AH), B is LITHIUM (80AH), I installed Orion-Tr DC-DC Converters (12V) in the middle to isolate the two batteries, the engine is directly connected A charging, when A battery voltage is sufficient during driving, B battery will be charged through DC-DC.
I want to use a charger to charge battery A when the ship is towed back to shore, and then charge battery B through DC-DC. I don't know which charger and how much current charger can be selected for this configuration to avoid overheating?
*****Please forgive my english*******
I'm trying to commission a new installation of a LynxIon 1000 and 3 x HE 24/200Ah batteries. The only things connected to the system at this point is the LynxIon, a CCGX (via Aux VE.CAN, and powered by the AUX power output on the BMS).
As the system powers up, the status light on the BMS flashes rapidly (continuously), and then moves into an error state with flash+beep 9-times. The CCGX has been updated (manually) to the latest firmware, and reports the error as #28 battery flashing error. The last battery in the series now has a red status light on.
There are terminators at both ends of the battery bus and have tried removing the last battery in the series to attempt to bring the others up (they were showing green status). This resulted in each last battery in the series failing to flash and now stuck in red state - so now, one at a time, the whole system is stuck in an error state.
Because the BMS tries to flash the batteries during the startup and then goes into an error state, I'm having trouble updating its firmware -- its at 1.07beta. The difficulties lie in getting the CCGX onto the VRM portal in an off-grid installation (a boat). The CCGX doesn't seem to connect to a USB connected smartphone, it can connect to a laptop via the ethernet cable if I can get some sort of hub to act as an DNS server, but then I need to figure out how to bridge the cell phone wifi/hotspot onto the local CCGX ethernet.
It seems like this would work really well in a house, connected to the grid with ethernet and alternate power, rather than a boat where most of the options end with if I can get the power system up, then I can connect to the internet... Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I have just installed Pylontech batteries and everything is working fine but the Amphour consumption is not being displayed in the VRM Portal
Am I missing a setting?
Blue Solar MPPT
Hi, I'm having a really hard time trying to get my firmware updated.
I have a 2702 Multi. Current firmware 413 so I need to use VEFlash. I've disconnected all accessories and plugged the MK3 directly to the Multi.
Every time I try and run the VEflash program it says it can't connect.
I can't think of what else to try, it is really frustrating and I need the updates to the PowerAssist. Please let me know if you have any other ideas I can try.
[image]I have been using my SmartShunt for some time successfully. This weekend while monitoring my battery from the app it suddenly disconnected and greyed out in the app. Now when I try to connect it says bluetooth is busy.
Here's what I tried, nothing has recovered:
1. Turning off bluetooth on my phone, waiting couple minutes then turning on
2. Setting airplane mode, turning back on after a couple minutes.
3. Rebooting my device
4. Powering off device, leaving off overnight, turning back on
5. removing the SmartShunt from bluetooth settings
6. Clearing app cache/data
7. Removing and re-installing the app
Here's my log:
Can anyone assist?
For month the Victron app worked flawlessly with my BMV.
Now when I click on the BMV in the device list it doesn't connect and it says “Connection not possible, delete device from connected device list and reconnect (in German)“
So I deleted the BMV from the device list on my phone in the Bluetooth settings.
But nothing changed. In the app I can't do anything sensible, just changing code by typing the PUK.
Then I reinstalled the app from my phone. Nothing changed, the BMV is still in the list but won't connect.
Now I read the manual and searched here for an hour but didn't find a solution.
Please help me.