I have a question about the superpack 24V 50Ah batteries. What is the short circuit current? Or in other words the max draw limit? I can find that they can provide 50A continues and 100A for a short moment. Is there a cut of in the internal BMS that will not alow more then 100A output?
Thanks in advance for your replay!
I have been testing various converter setups to charge 2 6V AGM batteries connected in series. Total capacity is 225Ah, Peukert exponent = 1.12. I discharged the batteries to 20% state of charge, then connected the converter and monitored battery voltage, charge current and SOC as reported by the BMV-712. I also calculated the state of charge using the Coulomb counting method, assuming a charging efficiency of 95%. I would have expected my calculated SOC and the SOC reported by the BMV-712 to match, but they don't:
The BMV-712 SOC reads consistently high and reaches 100% while the converter is still in bulk charge mode. My calculated values seem much more reasonable and believable. Interestingly, if I set the charging efficiency in my calculations to 120% (crazy, I know) then my calculation of SOC matches the BMV-712 exactly.
Anyone any idea what is going on here?
I've lurked a bit on this forum and gathered useful information here, but have not found the answer to this question.
I first bought the Smartsolar 100/30 and was quickly impressed with its performance, value for money and easy accessible setup and configuration over bluetooth. I then decided on, but have yet to buy, the Smart BatteryProtect and BatterySense, both which communicates with the user, and other Victron products via bluetooth.
Now I just received my Multiplus, and although I knew it didn't have bluetooth setup, I was not prepared for how cumbersome it is to use! While the Victron Connect app is one of the most usable and enjoyable apps on my phone, and it shows a real effort has gone into designing it (taking usability and the user's needs into account), the VE Configure is a design leftover from the 90's. It is old, outdated and not very usable.
Has there been a generational change in the Victron staff, with new competence creating all the Smart products, taking the user's needs into account, and this change has not reached the Multiplus-department? Some old manager thinking "this is how we do it here"? Or is it to save on cost?
The bluetooth functionality is built in to products that costs 50-70 euros, so in a Multiplus that costs several thousand euros, the cost of the bluetooth hardware would be negligible. The same with the software, there are clearly someone able to design great functionality and apps within their organisation(s), that already has done so for several of their products, and adapting this or writing new software is not a great cost when you have the competency in-house and they already know the systems, the products and are doing a great job.
With the multiplus, one has to buy additional hardware to even set it up for first time use, since the configuration of the dip-switches is severely limited. So yeah, Victron will sell more of the old-fashioned computer interfaces. And if one buys those, one is met with an interface (VE Configure) that cannot have cost the company more than a pair of clogs in development over the last 15 years.
So while the cheaper Victron products give me a joy of ownership through their well designed interfaces, in addition to their performance, the Multiplus gives me a headache. I considered buying a cheaper chinese inverter/charger that had a display and buttons, with which I could configure all I wanted to. My experience with the smaller Victron products convinced me to go for the Multiplus, but I am currently regretting it.
In Winter I want to be also autark and use a Honda i10 to charge and support my batteries when they get low. I could connect the Generator simply at the mains socket. But there seems a methog to connect directly top the multiplus. I would not always have it with me so need to be a plug-.able connection.
Which method is better?
Hopefully an easy question to answer...
I am hoping to use two BMV-700s one as an alarm and one as a trip (it would be great if it had two relay outputs but it doesn't). Is it possible to put two of the provided shunts in series? Will this affect the accuracy of measurement?
My Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30 Charger runs hot, and the output current folds back considerably. Anyone else with this problem? When cold, it will output 33A. When hot, it will fold back to 26A or less. Parts of the case may exceed 134dg F, in a cool (60dg F) environment. By adding a 80CFM fan above the fins, the case temperature is lowered by 20 degrees F, and the unit will continuosly output 30A. It would appear that the heat sink is undersized. Comments?
Hello from the southern french Alps!
In my house, my 12 OPZS batteries have been in use for 10 years. I think they should be equalized somehow. I tried:
Shoul I dare set veconfigure to tube traction batteries or is there any other solution?
MPPT 75/15 with current FW
Smart Dongle w/current FW
issue resolves if I disconnect, then re-connect power at the MPPT
Overnight and into the next day, solar shows 0W (zero watts)
(appears to NEVER start charging the next morning)
In sun, Solar shows 18.35V and 0.0A
Battery shows 12.43V and 0.0A
I do not use the Load output or Streetlight
I have reset MPPT to Factory Defaults = no change
Cycling the Power to the MPPT fixes the issue...until the next day = 0W and not charging (again)
Seems "stuck" in Float state
Notice installation Easysolar 1600.pdf
Bonjour, je souhaite brancher 3 modules 375Wc 120 demi-cellules sur 1 mppt 100/50 (easy solar 24v/1600) 1 module par entrée MC4. j'ai vérifié sur le configurateur Excel, c bon. mais en lisant très attentivement la notice, dans l'exemple il est précisé qu'il faut que les panneaux soient en 72 cellules mini. Alors est -il possible de faire mon branchement? le mppt fonctionnera t il ?MErci
[image]Hi, I'm a seasoned user and seller of Victron gear.
Today, I discovered a 3.6% current discrepancy between a smart solar MPPT100-20, an IP67 charger, a DC clamp meter, a multimeter and 2x BMV-712.
12V battery charging current limit on the MPPT was set to 15A which was matched by the DC clamp meter but the 2x BMV-712s only displayed 14.45A which is 3.6% below the mark. BTW I ensured the 15A was kept constant by feeding stiff and regulated 24V to the smart solar's input with the output wired to a 12V LFP battery @ 50% SOC.
This had me curious.
I then used the IP67 charger with the current limit set to 6A and wired everything including the 2 shunts and 10A multimeter in series with the half charged LFP battery.
The result was similar: multimeter and DC current clamp were showing very close to 6A but the 2x BMVs gave a reading of about 5.78V which again, is 3.6% below the mark. And no, there's nothing else connected.
Both BMVs show zero when there's no current. Parameters 65 and 66 have the default 500/50 so it looks like the shunt resistance is out by 3.6%?
If there is no WIFI connection, will the datas be temporarily stored on a USB stick ?
Unfortunatley i could not find out this and i see a gap in the data recording.
Thanks in advace for your feedback!
I failed to update a SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 from 1.56 to 1.59 on a MacBook with Mac OS Catalina, so I took an old MacBook with Mac OS Mojave and tried it on that. And it worked flawlessly. Somehow the code is broken for Mac OS Catalina 10.15.7.
Has anyone else experienced the same issue? I don't want to take 2 MacBooks in the field.
We have a two alternator 12V system, 1 for traction (capacity unsure) and one for leisure/house batteries (500Ah). For clarity this is a narrowboat fitted with a Nanni 43hp diesel. Both alternators are run off the crankshaft, via different pulleys.
Historically we have had battery charging issues and are considering a DC-DC connection (Orion) to allow the traction alternator output to be made available to the leisure batteries.
Does anybody have any dual alternator schematics? All the standard Victron offerings are for single alternator systems.
For completeness we are also considering solar panels with MPPT charge control.
Dashboard showing a very low PV wattage, and its a clear sunny day.
Is this because the MPPT controller is throttling the energy input into the batteries?
Running a 48V system, AGM battery bank, Mppt 150/100
As an installer, when I invite a user (customer) to their installation, can the user (customer) now see all my other customers installations?
Its not quite clear on what the invited user can and cannot see, user not given full control.
Any help appreciated.
With the 2 inverters connected in parallel,
Grid connected on AC input 1 (on both inverters) does both inverters need genset connected to AC input 2?
When connected as above, error on cerbo Touch displays " #19 slave does not have AC input" but it does, as it is bridged from AC input 2 of Master inverter.
I am struggling to find the cause of very bad performance of my sailboat 40W solar panel installation.
The controller is Bluesolar MPPT 75/10. There are 2 horizontal panels of 20W each, connected in parallel. The panels are Sunbeam Tough Flush T20F. According to data they are supposed to have Vmp=20.88V, Imp=0.99A, Voc=24.48V and Isc=1.19A each.
My gel battery is not full and needs charge. The last weeks there has been plenty of sun. I am in south of Sweden. However the max power seems to be only mediocre 4W and a typical daily yield is only 30-50 Wh. The panel current sum normally is 0.3A in full sun when the panels are not shaded.
The cable is 2.5 mm2 from the panels. I have checked all connections. I even tested another temporary cable just to be sure.
According to nearby weather stations solar radiation intensity is typically 960 W/m2 at this time of the year, which is not that far away from the test conditions 1000 W/m2.
According to the Victron calculator the panels should produce almost 150 Wh/day or a max charge current of around 3A. But my poor 30 Wh/day or max current 0.3A is simply so much lower that I am now frustrated. I was hoping for at least 100 Wh/d or perhaps even more. A max power of 25W or current of 2A was also in my expectations from this 40W installation.
With a Fluke 179 multimeter I have measured the sum from the two parallelled horizontal panels as Voc=21.9V and Isc=0.95A when in max sun at 13:00. That is much lower than the panel data, isn't it? As there are two panels Isc should be 2*1.19A=2.4A at perfect conditions.
My tests also reveal that one of the panels seems weak, as it only gives half the current than the other does. And its voltage seems lower than the other.
The solar panel producer Sunbeam says that the Victron controller is not good enough and wants me to buy theirs instead. They say that their controller starts at a much lower voltage difference and consumes much less power, They say it is better than the Victron, in what ways I don't know.
I have read various posts here on the subject, but it seems as everyone is getting much more out of their panels than I do.
Should I claim warranty on one or both of the panels?
Or am I simply expecting too much?
Or could there be a problem with the Victron Bluesolar MPPT 75/10 controller itself?
I had this unit installed on my boat with 2 ridged panels. It makes a loud clicking almost relay noise when I’m not hooked up to shore power in the mornings under low sun conditions. Once the sun hits the panels a lot it goes away. It’s loud and wakes us up. Happens in the evenings as well. When it charges everything worked fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Picture attached is when it happens.
Have Venus GX, mppt 150/100, multiplus 48/5000, time to go always showing as 0.00 value.
what is the time to go feature, when does it show up on the dashboard and where do you configure it?
Cannot get it to show value other than zero.
have latest firmware installed on all devices.
I got myself a SmartSolar MPPT 150/45 - TR with the Display option. I switched from my 100/20 to the 150/45 because the smaller one was on its limit.
The problem that I encountering now: The new MPPT doesn't go into float.
It's connected via VE. Smart Network to a SmartBMV 712 and a SmartBatterySense. On the app, the MPPT says it's using external voltage and external Battery current sense from the BMV and Battery Temperature from Battery Sense.
Its also connected to a Raspberry Pi running VenusOS.
Right now, the MPPT is set to a maximum absorption time of 6h and an Absorption Tail Current of 4A. The MPPT as I'm writing this is charging the Battery with 3.1A (MPPT Reading) where 2A go to Battery (BMV Reading)
From my understanding, the MPPT should go into Float if the Absportion time is at max 6h or the Battery Current goes under 4A for one Minute.
Today it started charging with 11.8V and is in absorption for 4 hours.
Typical days are, charging bulk over the day, going to Absorption, Battery Current falls under 4A, and MPPT still in absorption. Then, when I come home and using the energy, it goes back to bulk if the sun is going down. Or if I'm not using Power, the MPPT going straight from Absortion to off.
2 Days ago it once was in float for 20 Minutes then the Sun gone down.
I think it is not good for the battery if it's continuing this. Does someone know an answer to this?
I think the Manufacture should know about the type of RCD should be used for that particular product.
For some time I've noticed my inverter give overload warnings. On investigation I found that if my load exceeds the inverter capacity, let's say 5000W then I have an overload warning even when the grid is connected and solar producing power.
My configuration is:
Quattro 5K, 481
RS450/100 producing +-3000W
Battery supply remaining +-2000W
Grid supplying some watts, minor values though.
Both ACOut1 and ACOut2 in use as per normal No Grid Failure scenario.
Why would the inverter give an overload warning when it's maxed out on Inverter power but the connected grid is still connected to provide 'top-up' when needed?
We all know the inverter is at max so while the grid is connected I don't really care. When the grid is NOT connected then YES, then I need to know about it. Can that setting not be amended to not warn me on a daily basis that my inverter is working hard for it's money?
Hi, sorry if it is obvious, but I can't figure it out.
While configuring new installation MultiPlus 120/3000 I ran into a problem.
The setup is primitive - just MultiPlus with 2 lithium batteries connected.
I wanted to configure aux input as a safety switch for inverter. But every time I add
safety switch assistant and load it to device - MultiPlus starts blinking all front LEDs intermittently.
And this is a problem in itself.
But then I clicked a button on Assistant Tools tab to generate Error Report. It saved it - but the file looks like binary. How do I view it?
Of course for extra credit - why would adding assistant break configuration?
Or does it? I made assumption that blinking all LEDs is bad - waited for some time for it to settle down.
I just installed a BVM 712. I set the battery capacity and everything appears to be working but the time to go does not change. i ran every light and the fridge for over 12 hours last night and this morning the time to go is at 240 H which is the same as it was last night prior to running these things. The battery charge percentage came down from 100% to 93% so it seems to me that the time to go should have changed as well. What am I missing?
The VenusGX added the Energy Meter EM24 Ethernet just fine and started using it showing the 3 phase grid input.
However it is confused as I have my multiplus 2 on phase 3. What it does is count the measured AC output of the multiplus 2 on top of the phase 1 measured grid power. This causes it to display double the power used but I figure it will also cause a major issue with determining the appropriate feedback power.
How can this be solved?
Can you only install this on phase one?
yes I am planning to upgrade this to a set of 3 multiplus 2's one on each phase but these machines don't come cheap so I started with the phase that has the most power consumed.
EDIT: switching phase 1 and 3 on the Energy Meter solved the issue but this seems like a silly way to solve something that is ultimately a software setting. and of course now pahase 3 is reported as one and 1 as 3 which could of couse cuose more confusion in the future.
[image]A new beta came out today that includes smartshunt 2.33. It failed during the upgrade. I now cannot connect. I get the message to install the firmware. Tried the officially released version and it fails also. the smartshunt is connected to my color control and appears to be reporting fine. I just can’t connect to it via Bluetooth without getting the message to upgrade the firmware.
Anyone know where I can obtain the Bluetooth firmware file? I logged into the Pro section but it doesn’t have any Bluetooth files.
Resolved: I placed my device within 3 inches of the mppt and then the SmartShunt. The Bluetooth firmware updated successfully. Prior attempts were about 3 feet away. Go figure.
Is there anyway to allow ESS to soft start or to ramp up as the sun comes up?
Right now the logic seems like it waits to SOC is 5% high than minimum and then turns on and brings grid to grid setpoint. I would prefer that the system stays at minimum SOC and the inverter tracks MPPT out till the grid is at setpoint then start charging the batteries till 5% high then go back to normal ESS. This would prevent the system from doing the 45% on, 40% off, 45% on, 40%, that I sometimes have on cloudy days.
I have been able to do it with external control but would prefer if it was just done in the GX.
I installed a new Skylla IP-65 charger (12V/70Amps/3 outputs) with the Skylla-i Control 2 weeks ago. It is setup with 2 lead-acid battery banks. DC power cables are #6 AWG. (1 output is left open) I'm also using the temperature sensor and the remote voltage sense on bank 1. It's been working very well since last night. After a 6 hour boat ride, we got into the marina, connected shore power and the Skylla stayed at 0.0 amp. Skylla-i control was showing bulk mode, with 0.0 amps and battery voltage of 11 volts. I measured 12.5 volts at the battery post and the skylla charger posts. Turned it on and off twice. Same result. Thinking that it might be the temp sensor or the Vsense circuitry problem, I disconnected those 4 wires and switched it on again. Same result. I shut it down again, reconnected all the temp/Vsense wires, turned it on and now it's working!!! The charger was not hot in any way and is not installed in the engine room. Since then, I cycled the AC power this morning to see if it would fail again and it did not. What am I looking at? Cold solder on the circuit board? software bug? known issue? Thanks for your help.
can a Bluesolar 150/70 and a Smart solar 250/70 be connected to one batterybank and work together?
We allready have one pv array with a Bluesolar 150/70 charging the batterybank. But the batterybank is to big for this charger.
I want to install an extra array with a Smartsolar 250/70 charger.
Can a Bluesolar work together with a Smartsolar charger? Can the communication ports be connected?